By Christine Swan
When I was studying biology at the University of London, our electron microscopes were located in a mundane office building in King Street, Hammersmith. We took the Tube, and trudged the short distance, learned how to use these incredible devices give us a window into the tiniest of worlds. As the tube trains trundled underground, their vibrations were amplified massively by the electron microscopes, making this a less than ideal location.
I have also walked alongside and underneath the the thunderous A4 as it transports people and goods in and out of the capital. The Hammersmith Odeon, now the Eventim Apollo, was a regular teenage haunt of mine, requiring lengthy queuing under the A4 flyover, to watch this, or that band.
I have also made the pilgrimage to Rik Mayall’s memorial bench, now situated on the other side of the road to the opening sequence of the BBC comedy series, Bottom. It is a must for all fans of the anarchic series and of the hilarious and talented Mayall.
Remembering Rik Mayall – at his bench in Hammersmith
However, if this is your only experience of Hammersmith, then you have been cruelly deceived.
Last Saturday, the weather was fine and unseasonably warm. I set off from my hotel to walk the short distance to the bank of the River Thames. Hammersmith bridge loomed into view, painted a similar green to the surrounding vegetation. Built between 1824 and 1827, it is currently open to pedestrians and cyclists but it is recognised that it is a delicate structure. It sticks in my mind as I suffered a bicycle tyre blow-out at the summit of the bridge, and wobbled my way precariously to the Hammersmith side before pushing it the rest of the way.
Hammersmith Bridge
The sun was glorious and I soon realised that I was overdressed. I rolled up sleeves in an attempt to cool a little. I walked past riverside pubs, preparing for the anticipated lunchtime rush. There were numerous teams of rowers out on the river, with small powered boats, weaving their way between, with loudhailers barking instructions.
Along the banks of the river
I headed towards the William Morris Society museum at Kelmscot House. Unfortunately, although the shop was open, the museum would not open until 1pm. Not to worry, the weather was fine for a longer walk and so I headed further along to Emery Walker’s house. The Thames Path winds its way along the river and through little alleyways lined by shuttered riverside houses, leaning into one another. Some had immaculate gardens facing the river, but I also noticed that many had flood barriers and raised steps. As a resident of another city, that floods almost annually, I recognise the signs of properties that watch the tide and rain nervously during the winter months.
Little alleyways and historic buildings give this area of West London a unique appeal
I checked the calendar to discover that Emery Walker House was also closed for the day so this was not meant to be either. I carried on towards Chiswick, and discovered more remnants of the historic riverside community. Historic pubs, churches, original street furniture, and beautiful old buildings, left me wondering why I had never deviated from the A4 before, to discover the real character of this corner of West London.
Am I still really in London?
My third venue, which I hoped I would be able to look around, was Hogarth’s House, situated next to my constant companion of the A4, and reached via a long pedestrian underpass. Mirrors are strategically placed to enable those on foot to dodge speeding delivery riders on their high powered electric bikes.
Hogarth’s House
Described as his ‘country house’, if you visualise the A4 not being there, and Church Lane extending in its current well-preserved state, this property being surrounded by green, is not an impossible vision.
I was welcomed by a very smiley member of staff who told me that entry was gratis thanks to the house being owned by the London Borough of Hounslow. Amazing – thank you very much London Borough of Hounslow!
Inside the drawing room
The house has an education centre, teaching space, and gallery, in a modern extension but, as you walk through the modern building, you travel back in time to Hogarth’s 18th century abode. The artist created a series of engravings that told tales of the dangers of leading an immoral life, possibly the best known being Gin Lane, showing the infamous St Giles rookery. I also found the series of prints of the engraving of Marriage A La Mode rather affecting. This work was not well-received by the public, which I think is a pity. The final image of the wife , who has died by poisoning, with her young child kissing her one last time, and her father removing her wedding ring, I thought powerfully emotional. The original paintings are now owned by the National Gallery, so I will definitely try to see these on another visit.
The set of prints of Marriage A La Mode
Hogarth’s artist’s palette is here along with other possessions. In the garden is a huge, and old, mulberry tree, its branches supported by stilts. Two recreated pet memorials show that Hogarth was an animal lover, specifically, of pug dogs.
Hogarth’s beloved pets remembered
After thanking the staff for an interesting visit, I carefully negotiated the underpass and headed back into historic Chiswick. I walked back past the pubs, now thronging with diners, past the church, the street lamps, the wonky post box and stink pipe, past the Italian deli, selling vegetables out of the boot of a Fiat 500, and back towards Hammersmith.
A very tall Hammersmith stink pipe
It was now well beyond 1pm so I headed back to the William Morris Society museum, which was now open. This is a small museum, but an absolute must for Morris fans. I started my tour by perusing the two huge pattern books, available for Morris nuts to choose their next decorative device to squeeze into their colourful homes. I have my eye on either Willow Bough, Borage, or Honeysuckle for my next spare bedroom project, after my Bluebell Embroidery sofa cover and Honeysuckle and Tulip curtains. If you know, you know. Myself and other fans, walked slowly, drinking in the mix of colour, pattern, and form, creating the perfect, practical, living space.
Morris-tastic!
The downstairs exhibition space houses Morris’s printing press and examples of sketches, carved woodblocks and prints for everyone’s delight. I left feeling inspired, and of course had to pass through the little shop on my way out. I felt quite inspired as I stepped back out into the warm sunshine and back towards Hammersmith Bridge.
Morris’s Kelmscot press
I have to confess that I had not expected Hammersmith and Chiswick to have left such a wonderfully positive impression on me, but they have. I do intend to return to visit the Emery Walker Trust house which will also feed my Morris addiction. I must also remind you dear readers, of my visit to Sambourne House in Holland Park, which is also a William Morris-must.
More information
Hogarth’s House – well worth a visit! https://hogarthshouse.org/
Emery Walker’s House – I will be back to visit https://www.emerywalker.org.uk/
William Morris Society museum – https://williammorrissociety.org/
Awful Rigours and Wretched Pay 