By Christine Swan

At the allotted time, I left the cool port building in Catania to board the coach to the southern port of Pozzallo. It arrived at the port’s rear entrance on time, and all of the passengers loaded their luggage into the side compartments before we were ready to leave. My small rucksack was also pushed in, dwarfed by huge suitcases. Catania is the Sicily’s second city and, as we joined the autostrada, basked in warm spring sunshine, Mount Etna could be seen receding in the distance, until only the odd cloud formations over it were the only visible evidence of its location.

Etna recedes into the distance with odd clouds above

From initially being a major road, the surrounding countryside became less densely populated and more rural. Every electricity pylon housed a haphazard stork nest, and the numerous citrus trees waved their branches close to the edge of the road. The road surface itself became less regular, with more bumps, potholes, twists and turns. Long grasses waved under the fruit trees and clouds of butterflies meandered on the gentle breeze. I have frequently bought Sicilian lemons, but never seriously considered where they came from. It is here, and it is beautiful.

Eventually, the journey neared the end as we approached the resort of Pozzallo. However, we were not heading for the beach, as my coach was travelling towards the port, where the catamaran ferry would take me to Valletta. We disembarked and queued in the sun, waiting to board. A couple of gazebos had been set up to check tickets and issue boarding passes. I joined the first class queue behind a family bedecked head to toe in Balenciaga branded leisure wear. I hadn’t had a shower since I left Venice, was wearing my unbranded t shirt and casual trousers, with my massive hoodie tied around my waist. In short, I probably looked a bit of a mess. I was greeted with: “I’m sorry, this is the first class queue”. I smugly showed my ticket and received my boarding pass. I ascended the ramp to board the catamaran. I then headed for the stairs to the first class lounge, behind the Balenciaga family. “I’m sorry the is the first class …….” I handed over my boarding pass. “Thank you”, I said and lugged my rucksack and grubby self up the stairs.

Onboard the ferry, looking over the harbour wall to the Mediterranean beyond

I found a good spot and watched the huge number of lorries being loaded onto the ferry bound for Malta. Unfortunately, there were no vegetarian options for the inclusive onboard catering, but I did have some fruit and a drink. There was a small outdoor deck area with seating so I sat myself down to watch the boat leave. The sea was flat calm and the initial movement, barely perceptible. The ropes were winched in, more smoke came from the funnel and we were off.

We’re off!

The journey between Pozzallo and Valletta only takes about ninety minutes and, as the sea was as calm as a mill pond, it was a lovely crossing. When Valletta first came into view, I was transported back to the first time I had seen the same scene, about forty years earlier. The impressive, sand-coloured fortifications came into view in the early evening light. Then came the buildings with their characteristic lantern windows and other features that I remembered. The ferry slowed as it entered the port and it felt like an age as the processes were completed to allow us to disembark safely.

The impressive fortifications that surround Valletta – a view that I had seen some forty years apart

It was still warm and light, but not too long before sunset. I had made contact with my daughter and she had come down to the port to meet me. I was quite taken aback by how deep her tanned skin was. Living in the sun gives a deeper, natural, sustained tan. In contrast, I was the colour of a sheet of paper. We walked through the gardens around the fortifications, to find my hotel. It was so lovely to see my daughter, and I also felt a huge sense of achievement. It had only been four days since I left my home, I had travelled almost 2000 miles to get there, but I had arrived. It was a very special moment.

Valletta old town traditional Maltese buildings with lantern windows

My hotel was comfortable and was cool inside. My room was on the third floor but although I didn’t have a lantern window, I still had a stunning view over part of the city. I decided that a walk would definitely help me to sleep. It was Good Friday, which is a huge festival on the island of Malta. Lots of families were lining the streets, waiting for processions carrying huge statues of religious icons. Many of the procession are barefoot to represent their penance. All restaurants are open into the night and there weren’t any signs of anybody getting tired and closing their doors, except me.

View from my hotel window looking out over Valletta and beyond

Eventually, tiredness got the better of me and I returned to my hotel. There was just enough time to look out over the city before I went to sleep. I was proud of my epic, flight-free journey thus far. I was going to spend a few days exploring Malta and spending time with my daughter before my return to Italy. Sleep came easily, and I was far too tired to dream.

The Triton fountain – a favourite and distinctive meeting point

I remember the warm Mediterranean evening on Good Friday. It was so lovely seeing my daughter as she had been in Malta since the previous August, but had flown home for Christmas. She was relaxed and happy, and quite at home.  My daughter was a natural traveller and seemed to enjoy living out of a suitcase.  In her short life, she managed to see so many different countries and experience their cultures – more than some people manage in a lifetime. I treasure every hour that I spent in her company. I never thought that they would be grains of sand in an hourglass that would eventually run out. We spent so many happy times together, and I am grateful for that. I suppose that we all need to live like that. Our time is short, we mustn’t squander it. Do what you enjoy, spend time with those you love, make every day count.

More information

Malta – a small country with so much to see https://www.visitmalta.com/en/

I booked my ferry crossing via Direct Ferries https://www.directferries.co.uk/virtu_ferries.htm

I stayed in the Hotel Castille which is close to the city centre and transport links. The view was beautiful and hosts very welcoming : http://www.hotelcastillemalta.com/