By Christine Swan

As far back as 1967, Procol Harum used the ruins of Witley Court as the backdrop for their video accompaniment to their hit “A whiter shade of pale”. When I first discovered this hidden gem, it was left relatively unkempt and prone to vandalism. English Heritage took over managing the site in 1984 although the Department of the Environment had undertaken work to prevent parts of the building collapsing in 1972, implying that Procol Harum rather took their lives into their own hands when they shot their video five years before.

Over the years, English Heritage improved the site by adding formal gardens and, in 2002, restoring the incredible Perseus and Andromeda fountain to functional order. A welcome building, shop and large car park was added, making the ruined building into an attractive tourist site, as well as raising funds for its preservation.

The beautiful gardens around Witley Court

Witley Court was the ancestral home of the Foley family, and dates from the seventeenth century. They remodelled it twice before it being occupied by the Earls of Dudley who created the magnificent home, the remains of which can be seen today. The Dudleys and Foleys, were fabulously wealthy and well-connected. The Earls of Dudley hosted lavish parties, including those attended by the end Prince of Wales, later, King Edward VII.

The Earl of Dudley and the prince of Wales (right)

The 1st Earl of Dudley was widowed young but remarried in 1851. He remodelled the house and gardens between 1855 and 1860. His architect was Samuel Daukes and his landscape gardener was William Andrews Nesfield. The magnificent centrepiece of the Perseus and Andromeda fountain, and the smaller Flora fountain, were sculpted by James Forsyth.

Witley Court and the Perseus and Andromeda fountain

The house passed to the 2nd Earl in 1891. His marriage to a society beauty and banking heiress, Rachel Ann Gurney, was not a happy one. The couple separated in 1912 and Rachel drowned eight years later. The Earl sold the contents and house. Sir Herbert Smith was a Kidderminster carpet manufacturer. He bought and occupied Witley Court in 1920. He was progressive and installed electric lighting and power.

Witley Court in 1900

In 1937, a devastating fire swept through the house. A neighbour remembered seeing the smoke but only part of the house was destroyed. Some of the contents were saved and later sold but Smith did not have the means to restore the house so moved out and died six years later. There is some local folklore surrounding the fire, that it wasn’t too bad and that the property could have been saved. But, that didn’t happen. The house was purchased for £20,000 in 1953 by an antique and scrap dealer. Stonework and other items were sold – some being used to edge the war memorial in nearby Stourport on Severn. Even the Perseus fountain was made available for sale. Eventually, all that remained was a ruin. Teenagers would go to the site to drink and to throw stones at the sculptures. The estate changed hands again in 2008 and has remained in these mystery hands since then. English Heritage have continued to manage the Grade I listed building and site.

The side elevation of Witley Court with the Flora fountain pool in the foreground

Visitors can imagine the splendour of the magnificent home, with its huge, sweeping entrance, the grand ballroom, the orangerie, and less glamorous service areas. They can now sit in the gardens and wait for the hour, when the smaller fountains diminish, and the gradual roar of the main, central jet of water begins to rise, higher, higher, higher still, spilling over the clam shell basins, and roaring like a steam train once again, rising over thirty metres at full height. It is indeed an impressive sight! The fountain was powered by a reservoir situated in a nearby hill. Water was pumped through huge pipes, with a diameter so great, that they can be walked through. Originally, a steam pump was used, but this has been replaced by a modern, electric model.

The Perseus and Andromeda fountain fired up

After watching the fountain, visitors can walk around the garden, and admire the formal flowerbeds and pineapple-topped garden temples. Sweeping up the ornate cast iron staircase you can admire the view from the orangery, the chequered black and white marble floor, is still intact, but dulled by the weather and time. If you look closely on the edges of the stone columns, you can still see the broken edges of the glass panes, that have been smoothed to safety.

The view from the orangery

In the ballroom, you can still see some of the wooden supports for the ornate baroque plasterwork that would have adorned the magnificent decor. Fireplaces, staircases, the position of doorways and upper storey rooms, can be figured out by looking up and around, and imagining how it must have looked.

A room with a view – wooden shutters in an upstairs window

If you need a more powerful input, walk the short distance to St Michaels and All Angels church. This is joined to the Court by a corridor but thankfully, this acted as a firebreak which saved the church. Prepare to be astounded by the most magnificent baroque church in Britain. The church is also Grade 1 listed and you immediately realise why. The church dates from the eighteenth century and was remodelled along with the house during its various incarnations. The ceiling painting of the Ascension by Antonio Bellucci, and the stained glass windows by Joshua Price, were acquired in London. Ornate gilded plasterwork was visited by nesting swallows when I visited and the church also has resident bats during the summer. The upkeep is as costly as the interior, and relies heavily on donations from visitors. I obliged and added Gift Aid as I thanked the host, and headed for some refreshment.

The breathtaking interior of St Michael and All Saints church, Great Witley

Walking down the church path and a short section of road, you arrive at the walled garden cafe. I have been visiting this place for many years and now it is as popular as ever. If the weather is fine, outside in the garden is the best location. If it is chilly, the conservatory is cosy and sheltered. Tea, cake and fantastic views – what could be better?

More information

English Heritage Witley Court and Gardens – https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/witley-court-and-gardens/

St Michael and All Angels Church, Great Witley – https://www.greatwitleychurch.org.uk/

The Secret Garden Tearooms – https://www.witleytearooms.co.uk/

Procol Harum – A whiter shade of pale – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0vCwGUZe1I